Creating a Stem - Simmons Sea Skiff 18 Construction

[JimRockfish]

Here are photos of the stem I made at Wooden Boat School in Brooklin, Maine and for the crabbing skiff that I'm building (first image). I'll explain one way to do it and a slightly better way. You can make it out of a solid piece of wood like the one made from cherry for the crabbing bataeu at Chesapeake Maritime Museum. However, a laminated stem, like the one in these pics, is the strongest. My stem is from 10 strips of mahogany like the one made in the school (has clamps). I took the Simmons Sea Skiff stem pattern from Cape Fear Museum plans ($40), traced the pattern with tracing paper to save the original, glued the traced paper to a FLAT board and simply lined/screwed blocks of wood around it for clamping. You brush acetone on the wood strips to remove top oils for a better bond. Brush 2-part epoxy, then epoxy with filler mix (like all other joints) between every layer and then clamp them. The instructor at Wooden Boat said iy'better to make the lamination jig the opposite way that I did and how we did it class. We used a jig made in the previous class to save time, but again not the best. A better method is to create the opposite jig, place blocks around the OTHER side of the stem pattern, pull the clamps and wood toward you instead of inversed. Look at the pic of the pattern I made and picture the blocks on the other side. Convex-vs. concave. Once it dries (24 hrs. @ 65 degrees), you sand off the old epoxy and cut beveled edges like you see in these pics. I made the stem long enough to go all the way to the floor and that made my life much easier. The top of the stem is epoxied to the keel and all the strakes are glued and screwed to it as well. You cut the front flat (for the outer stem) to the width stated on the plans. Follow them and you can't go wrong.

[JimRockfish]

. .. and use plastic - like you use on the floor when painting - between the stem and the jig. Same goes for all other epoxying and fiberglass work.

[seastallionmate]

Looks good! What length are the boards when you start the lamination. Do you just trim off what your not using after its cured?

-D

[JimRockfish]

D - I don't remember the exact length but I added a foot to the plan size and then cut off a few inches so that the stem met the floor exactly right. You use a plumb-line from the farthest center-point of the transom edge (lower-rear) to beyond the front of the boat and hang it down to make a mark on the floor. This is where your stem meets the ground at the length provided on the plans and then you add a few inches for the extra length to the floor, since the stem is curved forward. Ignore what Dave says - everything else has been perfect - and ignore his pictures about bracing the stem because it will be wobbly. It makes sense when you do actually do it. You should order the plans so you can work it out in your head. You won't regret it. - Jim

[DDan]

I've just (barely) started to build a Simmons 18. Your photos are great. I'm sure they'll come in handy when I get to those stages. Good idea to just make the stem over-long and bring to floor. Unfortunately, I've already started and doubt that I've made my long enough - maybe I can screw on an extender.

I'm also laminating from mahogony. My form's a litle more elaborate because I had one start to fail from clamping pressure laminating a kayak deck beam, albeit with a mich smaller radius of curvature. So, this one's overbuilt. I also steam bent the laminations first - because the mahogany seemed very stiff and because an article on stems in a WoodenBoat article a few months ago suggested doing it. Hope to glue it up this weekend.

Dan

[JimRockfish]

Dan - Fantastic. Did you make your jig yet? Did you get Dave Carnell's plans? You dont' have to bring it to the floor. However you could always add an extension to it or simply do it the way Dave shows in his plans. No biggie. Jim

[DDan]

I do have Dave Carnell's plans. I also have the 3 part Ellis Rowe article from WoodenBoat. I think I'll use the modified keel shown in the Rowe article.

I just glued up the stem blank this past weekend, so I have the jig made. I'll attach a photoof it when I find out how to reduce the resolution so that it will fit.

What kind of plywood are you using? I'm thinking about okume, but wonder if sapele or the Shelmarine impregnated okume is worth the extra cost for the additional rot resistance. I will probably epoxy coat everything anyway - but one can never keep all the water out.

[JimRockfish]

Dan - I'using Okoume and fiberglassing the inside and outside of the hull up to the garboard, above the waterline. 4 oz. on the inside and 10 ox. exterior. Commercial wood builders tend to use Meranti to save cost but it's heavier. Are you using West-Systems epoxy? I'll coat the entire boat before painting. I'm running to work and will add to this later. Jim

[DDan]

Here's the promised photo of my bending jig. After bending it, I see why we should have made it so that the front of the stem is against the form: the stem deviates slightly from uniform fore-aft thickness at both the top and bottom. I realized this, of course after tapering the blank, so trying to saw to the line would create a confusing mess. I don't think the difference will matter.

[JimRockfish]

Your stem jig is better than mine was. Looks great and the small difference makes none whatsoever and if anything, makes a better looking stem. Beautiful...you will have one of the big challenges completed. GO!